I am NEVER going back to the Bangkok Airport

Our week in Thailand was incredible. The trip home, in a word, was hell.

We arrived, on time, at the Phuket airport. After checking in, the woman at the counter informed us that we should go through immigration in Phuket to avoid the lines in the Bangkok airport. We all arrived at the gate, on time. Our flight, which allowed for a very tight connection in Bangkok, was delayed. I started to freak out and went to get a coffee the size of my head. My fellow travelers stayed calm, and half an hour after we were supposed to leave, we boarded. I alerted the group that we were going to have to book it in the Bangkok airport, which meant literally running the moment we got off the plane. The flight crew gave us special stickers, allowing us to de-plane before everyone else. As we landed, I started to pray.

12:30 am We deplaned and were immediately shoved in a van and taken to the international departures. The woman with us, an Bangkok flight rep, alerted us that we would need to run to our Air China gate and hopefully get on the plane. Both aircrews were informed of the situation, and we assumed at this point the AirChina flight would wait for us... but we ran anyways. As I ran, flip flops smacking, wheels on my luggage literally breaking, I really thought we were going to make it. As we ran to the international transfers counter, the stony faced woman looked as us, with zero pity, and said the flight would not wait. " What (heave) do YOU MEAN (heave) they won't WAIT!? WE'RE RIGHT HERE!!!!" I said to the woman, believing that this may be the last straw (thank god it wasn't the last straw, i needed the rest of my straws plus some.) We stood, looking at each other, trying to decide what we were going to do. Also, I realized my beloved camera bag was not with me (the plus side of this horrid experience: I didn't lose my camera!)

1:15am The little Bangkok Air flight rep who had bused us over, camera bag in hand, took us down to a service hallway below the airport, where a few confused women decided what to do with us. First, they cancelled our immigration and flight itineraries. Second, they gave us faulty information about the counter opening times. Third, they started to throw out a statement that would later bring me to tears: 1 hour and 10 minutes minimum connection time. In our tired and rather pathetic looking group, we decided to head out to the outside of the airport (because we had no tickets, we could not go in the departures area... we could only wait in the outside area.) We also learned that the next flight out on Air China was the next evening, but that all flights for the next three days were sold out and we would have to go standby. In essence, we could be stuck in Bangkok for three more days... with no real way of getting out.

2:00am Luckily, there was a Starbucks. A 24 hour Starbucks at that. We didn't want to risk not being around for a quick flight call, so we all decided we wouldn't' leave the airport until we got everything sorted out. We grabbed a few benches (or in my case, the floor) curled up on our beach towels, and tried to get some sleep. I managed to get a full 40 minutes, in between mentally trying to reason our way home.

6:00am First phone call to Expedia. Totally unhelpful, as they told us only the airlines could help us and that they could rebook us, for the price of another ticket. I went for my first round of coffee. After another hour on the phone with Air China reps, I gave up in hopes of the counter opening at 9am.

8:00am After another couple calls to both Air China and Expedia, I called my parents. My fantastic, wonderful, amazing parents. Sitting there at the Starbucks, coffee in hand, I started to tell my mom and dad about what had happened. I explained the connection time, the unhelpful people, and the possible three day delay on our departure out of Bangkok. As my mom so patiently told me to hang in there and be strong, I started to quietly cry. I cried because I knew that if my mom and dad were with me, they would at least be able to decode airport blabber and tell these airlines to knock it off. As I hung up, plan in mind and next set of problems to solve, a Russian couple next to me patted me on the shoulder and told me i'd be ok. I was touched.

9:00am The first of many frustrated calls to Air China. Not only will no one take responsibility for our lack of ticket, but no one can speak English. I ended up asking some silly girl at Air China for her supervisor, in hopes I could find someone to communicate with, and she promptly hung up the phone. Way to go, Air China! I was then redirected to Southern China Air, who apparently issued the original ticket. This, of course, was not true, but got me running from counter to counter for about an hour and a half.

11:00am The Bangkok Airways counter. The first of many lovely trips to this airline. I explained our situation to the representatives, and waited as they tried to decipher what had happened. They told us we would have to talk to Air China directly, and that because of the connection time (1 hour and 6 minutes) they could not help us (we needed an hour and ten.) We ping pong-ed between an empty Air China counter and Bangkok air for the next hour, before finally getting the only compensation of the experience: four lunch waivers from Bangkok Air.

1:00pm We were getting hungry, tired, and increasingly frustrated. I had not slept in 28 hours at this point, so I was also getting emotional. I didn't want to sleep, eat, or take a break until I had these problems solved. This is where I get really grateful for James. At about 1:30pm, after another call to my parents that put them on the problem-solving track, James convinced me that I did need to eat and take a break. He allowed me to have my computer open and skype running through the meal, but in return I had to eat a full plate of curry and take a 2o minute nap. At this point, we had informed all bases (Our program director and various parents) of the situation. My parents started offering to buy us out and put us all on a flight that evening, but those flights were also sold out for the next three days. I decided that everything that could be done had been done, and around 3 crashed for 30 minutes on a bench outside the taxi stand.

4:00pm Charge time. This is about the point where we started bringing in the big guns. Without going into excruciating detail, we bounced around a few more counters with Air China before ending back up at Bangkok air. The problem at this point was we were required to pay a re booking fee to get us tickets on the new AirChina flight. Bangkok air, because of the delay, was supposed to be responsible for this fee, but because of the 4 minute short needed connection time, they wouldn't pay it. I had no shame at this point. I stood, in front of the representative for Bangkok air, and pleaded, cried, and yelled. Nothing. Stony faced woman looked us in the face and said no. It was awful. We eventually paid the re booking fee and got on standby for the next flight, around 8:30, to Beijing and then to Shanghai(our original route.) We killed another hour standing at the AirChina counter, and three seats opened up standby for the first Air China flight. Monty and Amy took two seats, while James and I opted to stick together in hopes for seats on the second flight (1am.) We rushed Amy and Monty out and on the plane, hoping that we would all meet up in Beijing for the 8am connection flight back to Shanghai.

8:30pm James and I retire to the Japanese restaurant. We enjoy a dinner of sushi and sake, accompanied by extensive conversation and hypothetical contingency plans. We figured if we couldn't get out in the next three days, we would head back to Phuket and forget the whole "going back for school" thing... hypothetically of course. 10pm rolled around, and we started harassing our favorite Air China rep in hopes of standby seats. At 12:15, after the counter had closed, two miraculous seats had opened up. We grabbed our tickets, ran through security, and jumped on the plane.

1am Sitting on the plane, 25 hours after I had originally arrived in Bangkok, I was exhausted yet satisfied. Not only had we managed to get out of Bangkok, but we had solved this problem ourselves with minimal damage in tow. What felt like a minute later, I was being woken for landing in Beijing, having passed out like a rock and not moved for five hours.

8am-11am

After a quick flight over to Shanghai, We were back at the house. I alerted all parties that we had finally arrived, showered, and spent the day trying to upload and download until I couldn't keep my eyes open.

It was one hell of a trip back. We did it though... and we all made it in once piece. We managed to navigate our way through the airlines in Bangkok, in a country where we dont' speak the language, and bunker down in the Bangkok airport for a full 24 hours. The week was great... but goodness I won't be going back to the Bangkok airport anytime soon :)

Phuket: Three dreamy days of sunshine, thai food, and relaxation

Day 3/4/5

Phuket seems like somewhat of a blur in my mind, if only because I collapsed into a beach chair for two whole. Upon arrival at the Phuket bus station, we headed over to our Bed and Breakfast for some coffee and banana pancakes. I take this moment to applaud my own booking abilities in terms of the accommodations for this trip. The bed and breakfast we stayed at was a five minute walk from the Kata beach, right on the edge of the Kata/Karon beach town. Phuket is very large, divided into small beach towns. After dropping off our luggage, we headed out to Kata beach, grabbed some chairs, and started our day. At some point we went and grabbed lunch, before heading back to our hotel to put our luggage in the room and collapse for an afternoon catnap before dinner.

Note to all traveling to Phuket: the sun is very strong. I am used to wearing SPF 15 or lower and running around the beach all day. In Thailand, the humidity and bright sunlight caused me to sweat out most of my original (and second) application, leaving me burnt (again.)

Monty and Amy went out for dinner on their own, so James and I went exploring in Kata. We found a restaurant on top of a hill, overlooking the water and the small town of Karon Kata. After yet another fantastic meal of thai food, I discovered my favorite thai food of all: banana street pancakes. These pancakes resemble crepes, only they're a little more crispy and full of thai bananas. Strolling along the small streets with my nutella-banana pancake, I was overtaken with relaxation and a sense of really being on vacation. It was the best.

Next morning, we got up to another breakfast of pancakes and coffee. We walked down the street to Karon beach, which like Kata, consisted of endless white sand and beautiful blue water. Another thai lunch, a few drinks out of pineapples, and six hours later, we all reluctantly headed back to the B&B for some rest and dinner. We decided to head to the Hard Rock Cafe in downtown Patong, the main beach city of Phuket. After a very "American" dinner, we went cruising the streets of Patong, walking on beaches and sampling the local fare. We stayed out pretty late, going to a few beach parties and enjoying the cool night air. It was about this time when we all decided we never wanted to leave Phuket. Yes, we all love Shanghai, but there in the beautiful ocean town of Patong in one of the most interesting countries in the world, NONE of us wanted our vacation to end.

Friday morning, Monty and Amy headed out for a snorkel-boat day to one of the outlying islands around Phuket. James and I opted for motorbiking. Despite my initial reluctance, we rented a motorbike for around 5 USD and headed out for the day. We drove up to Patong and decided to go exploring and shopping. I managed to get a pedicure, as well as a few thai souvenirs in the street markets. James and I spent most of the day just wandering around, looking for dives and reading up on the history of Thailand. On the way back, we ran into some Elephants. Elephants are scared in Thailand, and a popular tourist attraction. I got to take some pictures with a baby elephant (so cute!) before motoring back through Phuket, camera in hand, and the sun began to set.

I had been thinking about my family all through this trip, but at this moment, I thought of my mother. My mom had told me stories years ago about her time abroad, motoring on the back of vespas through Rome with a good friend of hers. Riding on the back of this motorbike, watching the sunset along the beach, I was reminded again how much I truly am my mothers daughter.

After a quick (almost final) dinner, we all got in a cab on the way to the airport. Though we anticipated a long trip back... we really had no idea at this point what was about to begin.

Bangkok/Phuket: the endless bus rides

DAY 2:

Day two started out in groups. Monty and Amy, still relatively jet lagged from our previous day of sight seeing and moving around, took a quiet morning to shop and explore our neighborhood in Bangkok. James and I got up early to go and get the bus tickets for Phuket at the airport. After some navigating, bus riding, and a trip to the Bangkok airport ( note: this quick trip of exploring the Bangkok airport was vital to our survival later in the trip...) we got our tickets and headed back to the hostel.

We went over to the Jim Thompson house for lunch. The Jim Thompson house acted as the main US outpost in Southeast Asia during WWII and is famous for it's traditional Teak architecture. The house was beautiful, and lunch on the veranda was actually quite luxurious. After a tour and some daydreams about running away to this beautiful house for the rest of the year, we headed out to Wat Po, the temple of the famous reclining Buddha. We only had a little bit more time in Bangkok, so I decided to take the NYtimes recommended list and see the highlights. Wat Po, another sprawling and beautiful structure, houses the incredible 46 mlong, 15m high buddha. We also got to see some monks, who call this beautiful temple home.

After a rather rushed trip back to the hostel and trip in a tuktuk, we got ready to go to the airport. A tuktuk are small, covered trucks that act as local taxis around bangkok. I love tuktuks for their character and different take on sightseeing (example: Oh look at that building AH I HOPE I DON'T DIE!) We jumped in a cab and headed to the airport, where we boarded the first of MANY buses. After a tedious yet very local trip through bangkok to get to the south terminal station, we rushed to get on our overnight bus to Phuket. After slurping down some boiling cup noodles and doing a final bathroom run, we all got into our plushy seats and headed out to Phuket. The bus is 12 hours total, leaving at 8pm and arriving at 8am. This worked out great, as we were all exhausted and ready for 12 hours of nothingness.

It was about this point when I put on James's jacket, popped some Tylenol simply sleep, and curled up in his lap and called it a night. Maybe it's because I usually travel with type A girls (my own family included in that statement) but I never realized how great it is to have a type B boy around. Not only do they let you ramble and stress and try to solve the world's problems, but they also just smile and tell you it's going to work out just fine. In B land, the worries are few and the little things, like taking an overnight bus to Phuket, become memorable.

Bangkok: Buddha's, Wat's, and Pad Thai

A few weeks late on this post, but somehow it's still pretty fresh in my memory. This blog is being difficult about picture uploading, so bear with me and visit my facebook page to see the pictures from this trip.

Let's start with Bangkok:

Flying above Thailand as we circled the Bangkok Airport, I could only wonder what this strange new world held for four (three at the time) young travelers. None of us had ever been to anywhere like Thailand... so this trip was already pushing us out of the comfort zone of familiar, Westernized locations. Upon arrival, Monty, James and myself jumped into one of the brightly colored taxi's and headed into the city of Bangkok, ready for whatever the night held for us.

We booked at a small, boutique hostel in downtown Bangkok. The location was fantastic because we were right on the edge of the historical districts and far, far away from the infamous red light night districts. We arrived to a friendly staff, who lead us up the stairs to somewhat of a thai-closet-darkwood bunkroom. It was actually quite lovely, with open air showers and fresh, clean sunlight pouring into the thai-style living quarters. For a hostel priced at 15 dollars a night, we were doing pretty well. That evening, we all headed out to the night market on the other side of town to find some dinner and hopefully get some shopping in. The night market was fantastic. Endless vendors, selling everything from thai pants to bath oils. We grabbed dinner at a small local restaurant underneath an enormous tree, right in the middle of the plaza. This is where we first discovered the beauty of the Thai Baat. Everything in Thailand is incredibly cheap... which makes student travel a dream. Sitting under our bungalow in the open air plaza, we enjoyed our first of what turned into many thai meals on this trip: Pad Thai, Green and Red Curry, with delicious thai jasmine rice. After dinner, we strolled along stopping to our hearts content. James, like all good males accompanying women while shopping, grabbed a beer and silently strolled along behind Monty and myself.

We all headed back and waited for our fourth piece, Amy, to arrive. After crashing hard, we all got up the next morning for a day of sightseeing.

DAY 1:

We all got up the first morning tired, but excited for the day. After grabbing some coffee at the hostel, we strolled around the neighborhood looking for the route to the Grand Palace. Though beautiful and sunny, Bangkok was BOILING. At 95 degrees with thick, tropical humidity, we were all sweating and ready to eat by the time we got to the palace. After a quick brunch at Au Bon Pain (they have those in Thailand!) we went into the palace. Built in 1782, this palace had me singing "The King and I" all through the tour. How fabulous it must have been , to be here in the height of imperial Thailand. The sprawling structure kept us busy for most of the afternoon, looking at the different areas of the compound and the fabulous architecture of the traditional thai culture.

After the grand palace, we were all feeling the heat and exhaustion of the Bangkok sunshine. We headed to the nearby river stop to ferry across the river. After browsing the street fare and enjoying some of the local culture, we ventured cross the river to Wat Arun, one of the most traditional and most famous Wat's in Bangkok. Wat, in Thai, means temple... so everything is Wat this, Wat that. Wat Arun was beautiful, with elaborate carvings on a spire-like pillar that reached high above the river. What struck me about this architecture is how very different it is from everything else in the world. It isn't Indian or Chinese, and certainly not Western. The architecture and culture of Thailand is uniquely Thai... with bright colors and patterns I've never encountered before.

After Wat Arun, I realized I was sunburnt. No, not sunburnt... crisp might be a better term. However, no slowing down for our team. After a quick shower and some quick R and R, we all jumped in what had to be the longest cab ride ever (traffic...ick) to go to the highlight restaurant of the trip: Cabbages and Condoms. Despite the name, the restaurant was fabulous. We enjoyed pad thai and curry ( I think our count at this point was around 3 meals with just these staples) while learning about AIDS prevention in Southeast Asia. At the recommendation of the New York Times (which, while being in Asia, has been my saving grace for news, travel recommendations, and good articles) we attended dinner with an open mind... and our cameras. Not only were condoms a central theme; they were also the decor. All and all, it was memorable to say the least. On the way back from dinner, we spotted a Starbucks and immediately had our taxi driver pull over. Before we could correct our mistake, we were standing outside a Starbucks, surrounded by prostitutes.

Now i'm not someone who gets uncomfortable around prostitutes, especially in Asia. After reading Half the Sky and listening to Nicolas Kristof speak at Castilleja this past winter break, I feel I have a greater understanding of the true travesty that is Human Trafficking. Monty, Amy, and James all ran for the Starbucks. I hesitated, standing there with these women, many younger than myself. I watched as Western, Chinese, and all ethnicities of men passed, picking out women like items on a dessert tray. It was heartbreaking. Outside one of the most well known and profitable coffee chains in the world, I was watching women being picked up like grande lattes. The group was pretty shaken by this experience. I however am glad I saw it. From this point onward, human trafficking has a face in my mind... the face of the teenage girl outside of Starbucks who, in any other lifetime, could have been myself.

Chinese New Year and Thailand (the beginning)

Off on another adventure. Sorry about the late Harbin post... This past week has been crazy with midterms and getting ready for THIS trip. I realized that from two weeks ago in Harbin to the middle of April, I will literally be traveling every other weekend. Lucky me! Travel plans have changed slightly since the last time I posted about travel. Instead of Malaysia for the four day weekend in March, I'm headed to Tokyo with about half my house. It's going to be a big weekend of crazy fun. I'm in the process of booking various hotels, day trips, etc.

If there's one thing I'm doing a lot of lately, it's planning. I'm planning next year, this semester, the summer, my last two years of college, and my daily life. I have to remind myself to not plan so much and just LIVE. I think I could plan my life away and end up never actually living...

Last night was Chinese New Year. After a relatively crazy Friday night, our house was pretty exhausted last night. After some pizza and endless games of Mafia, we all got our our fireworks and headed down the the street. In China, fireworks aren't regulated, so people just set them off in the middle of the street...with cars... and people around. Our own show was pretty great; the boys got creative with the firecracker strings. Later that night, as midnight approached, we started actually running through the streets to make it down to the local temple in time to see the city light up. In a five way intersection near our house, there were fireworks going off at every ally leading up to the center circle, creating a picturesque scene as we all ran, fireworks booming and crackling on the ground everywhere, through the bright streets of Shanghai. It was like being in downtown Baghdad, or in some crazy movie. Either way, it was by far one of the craziest, most memorable moments of this year. We all stood in the middle of Beijing Lu, cars flying around us, as we looked down each avenue to watch the city sky light up. As actual snow rained down on us, we rang in the year of the Tiger together.

Anyway, here I am, on the plane to my next big adventure. I'm currently on a plane from Guangzhou, China, to Bangkok, Thailand. Monty, James, Amy and myself are all off for a week in Thailand, spending two days in Bangkok, and three days in Phuket. Two days of cultural city touring, followed by three days doing absolutely NOTHING on the beach. I am sooooo excited!

The morning was off to a bit of a rough start. After staying up all night watching the Chinese New Years celebration, I ended up crashing around 3:30am. At 6:30, I jumped out of bed for a shower, some cereal and coffee, and a round of emails. At 8:50, we were out the door, ready to go. With plenty of time for our 11:45 flight, we arrived at the Pudong airport at exactly 9:45. We strolled up to the counter, asked for the China Southern Airline desk, only to be told that our flight was out of Hongqiao, not Pudong.

In a moment of panic, I ran out the door and jumped in the nearest taxi, yelling hongqiao and quickly in Chinese. About a month ago, Expedia.com had sent me an updated itinerary, which I had read through and hadn't noticed anything but a change in the return flight. Unfortunately, Expedia also changed my departure airport. Luckily, we arrived at Hongqiao at 10:30, whirled around the airport departures for awhile, and finally got through and onto our plane with a few minutes to spare. Chinese airports, specifically Hongqiao, is incredibly difficult to navigate. After being redirected to three different counters, we finally found a counter with about 5 people standing around, all doing nothing productive. In my new hybrid American-Chinese style, I marched up to the front of the counter, pointed at our departure time and started shoving our passports at various attendants. This actually worked great and we were on our way within minutes, while Chinese passengers looked on in amazement. Rule one of traveling as a student: NO CHECKED BAGGAGE. We all planned on two carry-on's, so despite our rather rough start, we are on the last leg of our journey with all baggage in tow.

What I've learned by traveling with my peers instead of my family is that things are not going to go perfectly. I have a tendency to micromanage my travel plans, thus I feel the need to take responsibility for every wrench in the plan. I've learned that not only can I not account for the element of surprise and/or fate, but that I it isn't my fault either. All I can do is make sure that I am well prepared and full of contingency plans. As James has reminded me a few times this morning, whatever is going to happen will happen, and all I can do is keep my extra-prepared backpack handy and try to roll with the punches.

I will put in a quick ode to Valentines Day:

Here, in China, no one celebrates Valentines Day. Noting the number of single girls in my house, this probably isn't such a bad thing. However,last night, we were all treated to a little love. When we all returned from watching the fireworks and watching the snow come down on Shanghai, there were chocolates and roses waiting for every girl. Every girl I saw was touched. It's cheesy, but just a rose and some chocolate makes the holiday worth it. I'll be bringing something back from Thailand for the boy who was sweet enough to make sure that every girl in our house felt a little bit special today :)

I was a little luckier. My Mom, who always goes the extra mile to make every holiday special for me and my family, sent a bag of goodies along with my Dad in January. A box of chocolate and cards are all I need, of course with a few sweet tee shirts too :) My family is always my first valentine. I miss them so much... and LOVE THEM!

More to come later, probably tomorrow. We land in Thailand at 5:30, so we'll be able to get to our hotel, get some dinner, and just chill tonight. This morning aside, I think it's the start of a great vacation :)

Harbin: Day 3

Harbin, Day 3

Another great day in Harbin, another not so great trip to the Chinese Airport.

Our final morning in Harbin pretty laid back. We got up late, ate some lunch, and headed over to the airport. Unfortunately, our plane has been delayed something like four hours. We were supposed to leave around 7, but it looks like we're not leaving until 11:30. Lovely.

....

Well, it's four in the morning. Fantastic trip, LONG trek back. After eventually leaving, I am here, in my bed, unable to sleep and exhausted from the day. I am simultaneously uploading pictures and blogging to drain whatever energy seems to be keeping me awake.

All in all, Loved Harbin. Great adventure. must. sleep. nowwwwwwwww.

Harbin: Day 2

Harbin, Day 2.

It's amazing I'm even still awake at this point. After something like a 15 hour day, I'm sitting in my hotel room with everyone, still laughing and savoring the last of what has to have been one of my best travel days ever.

We started out the morning at 6:45 (or at least I did.) Side note: never in my life did I think I would be an early riser, but in college, I get up at least an hour before anyone else. After a shower and breakfast of a powerbar, apple and coffee (again, thank GOD for Starbucks VIA packets!!) Katy, Luke and myself met the group down in the lobby for an 8:30 pickup. Our rented bus was waiting, and off we went to meet Chris and Cory VanVeltzer, our program director and amazing wife. We're lucky enough to be traveling with the VanVeltzers, who along with being our program directors are just fantastic people.

First stop: Saint Sophia church in downtown Harbin and the Jewish Museum

Driving through Harbin, I wouldn't necessarily think I'm in China. The town is more Russian than anything else: the architecture is very western and much of the layout is European in feel (long, organized streets versus the Chinese tendency for crossing shorter streets.) The Chinese tell is the character signs, which cover just about every corner. We arrived at Saint Sophia around 9:20. The church was not even a little bit Chinese. The Russian orthodox style combined with the icy cold wind would make just about anyone think they're standing somewhere outside Moscow. After the church, we made our way over the Jewish Museum. This museum is dedicated to the large jewish population in Harbin. During WWII, while the Jews were fleeing Germany and parts of Russia, a small migration made it's way over to Harbin, China. China at the time had no antisemitism, making Harbin an ideal settlement for those jews brave enough to make the Siberian trek over here. The museum reminded me of how much I really enjoy museums and somewhat-education experiences. I like traveling and relaxing as much as any other person, but my parents have certainly instilled a thirst for cultural knowledge in me.

Second Stop: Main Street Harbin and the Frozen River.

I guess when I was planning this trip, I realized it would be cold... I even planned ahead for it. However, California has done me absolutely NO favors in terms of retaining any of my Midwestern cold tolerance. At about 10:30, I realized my fake thinsulate gloves (courtesy of the fake market on Nanjing Xi Lu) were not going to cut it against the -3 degree windchill. The bright sunlight did just about nothing, except illuminate the beautiful ice throughout the town. We strolled up and down the main street, admiring the eclectic cultural buildings and shops. We even found a Walmart super store ( Note: In the states I despise going to Walmart because of the claustrophobic crowds and inevitable inability to find what I'm looking for, but in China, Walmart is like a beacon of familiar light.) We went on first of what turned out to be many slides of the day on the Frozen river on the end of the Main street. The river completely freezes in the winters here, so crowds of eager tourists spend hours simply slipping around on this great frozen lake. After a cold but great time, we all headed back down the street for lunch. We stopped at a recommended Russian restaurant. I tried some borscht and an assortment of Russian-esque items, which was fun but definitely not my favorite cuisine. All and all, downtown Harbin was great. Then, back to the bus and onward to the afternoon activities.

Stop Three: The Tiger Park

I remember being a child and going to the zoo to see the tigers. Back then, the tigers were so big yet so far away. Today, the tigers were still big, but they were right next to me... or in my lap.

Upon our arrival at the Tiger Park, we purchased our tickets. With these tickets, we had the options of purchasing various small animals: chickens, pheasants, goats, or steaks. We learned we would be going out in a Jurassic Park style vehicle and driving up next to the tigers. The animals were to feed the tigers as we watched. Despite my more liberal inclination to shout animal cruelty, I figured this is an experience I would never get to witness in the US, so why not. I bought a chicken. Before jumping into our vehicle, I went over to a corner of our waiting area where there was a baby tiger in caged area. I decided I would pay the 7 dollars and get to hold the tiger, because hey, when else in my life am I going to hold a baby tiger! The handler sat me down and then put the tiger in my lap. The first two seconds were fine, until the tiger processed that (he?) was being held by some nice smelling foreigner. At this, the tiger started to growl and swatted my hair. I figured this was relatively harmless, so I smiled and waited for my friend luke to start taking pictures. However, the tiger was not as amused. After failing to get my attention from the swat, the baby tiger turned around and took a big bite right into my pashmina (around my neck... thank you overpriced fashion statement.) At this, I was done holding the tiger. In an effort to stay calm and hopefully save my jugular, I started to bounce the tiger and yelling at the handler to get this thing off me. After one more attempt at a bite, the baby tiger was promptly removed. I got some great, terrified looking pictures out if it... but I think my career as a Tiger handler will be going nowhere for now.

After the incident with the baby tiger, the group jumped in our van and headed out into the tundra. This preserve has something like 720 tigers, along with a few other assorted large felines. As we approached the feeding area, our animals were thrown out of a van across the pavilion. I watched in part horror, part fascination, as these HUGE tigers jumped, pinned, and cornered various pheasants and chickens. It was very cool, watching predators do what they do best: kill.

Warning: Next part is Graphic and awful. Be warned.

After getting off the bus, we went through a walkway where there were various tigers, lions, Ligars (Lion-Tiger mix, there are only 10 in the world and three of them happen to be in Harbin) Jaguars, and leopards. Every couple minutes a woman selling more chickens would come by and offer us a good price to literally throw a chicken over the side to a Tiger. A group ahead of ours agreed and purchased one of these poor birds. Then came the worst display of feline cruelty I've ever seen. It's true what they say about cats being mean creatures: they play with their food before they eat it. I won't go into specific detail, but this tiger spent about twenty minutes ripping apart a live chicken before eventually killing it. Needless to say, it was gruesome.

After that lovely display of the "circle of life," we headed back to the van. At this point, we were getting cold and tired. For anyone traveling in China: rent a van or driver. The easy pickup and lack of navigating made the whole day 100 percent easier.

Stop Four: The Ice Park

Harbin is famous for it's annual ice and snow festival. Every year, people and teams from around the world come to Harbin to carve various sculptures out of ice blocks and enormous snow piles. The creations were fantastic, ranging from cityscapes to portraits of various religious deities ( Jesus in snow, anyone?)

After a few more slides and ice sculptures, I could no longer feel my toes, hands, or nose. I am generally a good sport, and I try not complain. However, it was 4:30, and the sun was starting to do down in this vast park of ice and snow. I was cold, hungry (borscht only lasts so long...) and I'd been moving for almost 10 hours. I was ready to be done, or at least get some dinner. The rest of the group decided to go and see one last thing at the park, while I opted to wait for them back near the slide. Sitting outside in the cold was numbing, but I was happy just to sit and let myself mentally breathe for a few minutes. Luckily, it wasn't long before everyone came back and we headed out, once again, into the cold night.

Stop Five: Hot Pot

There are few things better in the world than a hot meal in the freezing cold. We all went out to a Hot Pot dinner. Hot Pot consists of a big pot of flavored, boiling broth, that cooks whatever you choose to put in it. It's almost like Chinese Fondue. As a group, we ordered various meats, vegetables, noodles and sides to boil in our own personal pots, flavored to our liking. Nothing beats spicy Hot Pot after a day in the icy cold tundra of Harbin. After an interesting game of two truths and a lie with Chris and Cory, we all headed back out into the night for one last stop.

Stop six: The Disney Ice Park

Like any good Dillon Daughter, I pass up no good Disney attraction. Our last stop of the night (around 10pm) was the ice park in central Harbin. This park is Disney themed, with huge ice sculptures carved into palaces, princesses, and fantastic slides. Endlessly tube sliding in the middle of Agraba (Aladdin) and Sleeping Beauty's palace was more fun than I've had in a long time. Innocent, good fun, taking me all the way back to the days of sledding in Cleveland or playing make believe. I'm a sucker for Disney, and amidst the sledding and lights and ice sculptures, the cold no longer mattered. I was just being a kid :)

So now I'm back here, in my little hotel room, while Luke and Katy get ready to pass out to which I will surely follow. It's approaching 19 hours, but today was worth it. Something about snow just brings me back to being eight years old again (in spirit, not in total practice) and makes everything a little more magical. Being here with these amazing people, my friends and mentors, roommates and true pengyoumen, I am reminded how lucky I am. Here, in Siberian China, I have no doubt I'm one of the luckiest girls in the world. Now I need to sleep before I get even more sentimental. What a great day :)

Harbin: Day 1

Day 1:

Well, I'm cold.

We're in some god forsaken Best Western on the outskirts of Harbin. Harbin should be the Chinese word for SIBERIA. There isn't anything around, mostly because it's January and freezing cold. As we were flying in from Shanghai, I started to realize that after the rather interesting northern China terrain, you are left with basically nothing but snowy flatlands. Fun times. After arriving at airport, we got in a cab (definitely made to seat two comfortably, but we squished four college students... yes?) and drove an hour to this ever lovely hotel out in the middle of nowhere. I don't want to make this sound bad, because truthfully, things could be a LOT worse. Really, they could.

After attempting to take a "quick" nap that ended up lasting all afternoon, we all sleepily stumbled to dinner. Enthusiastic about our new surroundings, we decided we would try the local cuisine, a hybrid of Russian and Chinese food. After finding what seemed to be a food street near our hotel, we chose the one restaurant with Russian writing. Turns out it was just Chinese food. At this point, I need to put in my words of gratitude for Amanda Shen. Amanda is the only person in our group who speaks Mandarin, and she has spent the majority of this trip (all one day of it) translating for us. Thank God for Amanda. We had a relatively good dinner of kabobs, noodles, and some of the local Harbin beer.

We haven't really seen the city yet, so I'm waiting on tomorrow for my full impression. We smartly have hired a driver for the entire day, so tomorrow we're up and running. More to come later :)

Travel Plans

This semester, I'm trying to get on top of my travel plans early. As much as I loved last semester, I didn't get to travel as much as I would have liked to, mostly because I couldn't get anything planned in a frugal, timely manner.

As of now, I have three solid travel plans. In about a week, I'm going up north to Harbin, China. For those who are unfamiliar with Harbin, it's a city in the middle of nowhere. Harbin is a frozen tundra that annually carves an elaborate city out of ice. Harbin also houses the largest white tiger sanctuary in the world. I'll only be there for three days, therefore limiting my chances of frostbite and hypothermia. Fun times.

I'll For Spring Break, I'm headed to Thailand: Bangkok and Phuket. A few friends and myself are headed out for a week of temples, curry, and beaches! Then, in March, I'll hopefully be headed to Panang and Kuala Lampur, Malaysia. I want to head to each location for two days. I've never been to Malaysia, and I don't really know much about it. Should be fun?

Finally, I have tentative plans to go out to Tibet in April. After the program ends, a few friends and I are hoping to spend a week in Lhasa, Tibet. Lhasa is the capital of Tibetan Buddhism, as well as the former home of the Dalai Lama. After visiting Tibet once a few years back, I have felt a great spiritual pull to return. Though my plans are not yet finalized, I am set on returning this spring.

In this year, I will have visited China, Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia, Tibet, Tanzania, Zanzibar, and possibly India this winter. Oh, and that place I call home, the USA! It's going to be a busy year!

Shanghai Saturday Mornings

I have little to no interest in being productive before the hour of noon on Saturday mornings. I get up, enjoy a quiet breakfast, and then watch endless hours of my hulu queue list (my morning of Saturday cartoons.) Frankly, it's been quite a week. I haven't even been in Shanghai a full week yet, and already I've picked up where I left off. Going out with friends, being complained at by those same friends for my healthier eating habits, and of course, the feeling of constant movement here in the Jia. If it's not the endless emails, it's the travel planning and dinner plans and gym workouts. Not that i'm complaining at all... I love the stream of events that keep me moving at all hours of wakefulness. There is always something to do, something to see or somewhere to go. Hence, when I get a few moments of simple nothing on a Saturday morning, I savor them for all they are worth.

I can't say i'm currently limited to Saturday mornings. I have (surprisingly) turned into an early riser. I get up at least an hour before anyone else, eat , and enjoy a cup of coffee with my pile of email and the nytimes.com . It's almost like meditating.

I guess what i'm so shocked by is how different things are this time around. This week I had to go pick up some laundry supplies at my ever favorite Tesco supermarket. I remember writing a post very early on about the horrors of Chinese supermarkets. As I went in to get my detergent, I couldn't help but notice how much easier it was. I could communicate (barely) with the clerks, navigate the crowded isles, and even find a few more obscure items. The cultural adjustment is just amazing to me. Only a few months ago, Tesco was my worst nightmare realized in a packed grocery store. Now, it's just another familiar place.

If this is only the beginning of the semester, I can't wait to see what's to come.

I never thought Shanghai would be COLD.

However, after watching actual snow fall from the sky yesterday and freezing my butt off on the way back from an acrobatic performance, the ideas seems vaguely more familiar. Cold here is biting, damp and rigid. There is no soft snow or gentle cool breeze filled with flurry, only piercing wind and some seriously frozen over puddles. Luckily, it's too warm for any snow on the ground, but that certainly doesn't help the cold factor.

So much has happened in three days. I've taken six hours of intensive Chinese review, gone ice skating, seen an acrobatic performance, learned how to play majong, and revisited some favorite habits. I feel like I never left, which in this climate can be the best feeling in the world. No adjustment (minus the cold thing,) no trying to figure out favorite spots and NO trying to decipher taxi cab lingo. Of course we're all jumping back into our favorite bar spots. There is something utterly satisfying about dancing the night away with your best friends, simply enjoying our youth.

It's odd to miss everything all at once. I missed being in Shanghai, and now I miss being home with my family and close friends. I'd like to say i'm a satisfied person, but I always seem to be looking somewhere else. Maybe that makes me lucky, that there is always somewhere in the world I would like to be and people I would like to be with. As much as that may pull away from the present, it also makes me feel connected.

Anyway, I have workout routines to do and chinese to learn. More to come :)

Part II: The Second Semester

First, I must apologize.

I didn't mean to neglect my blog, but unfortunately I did. I got busy, I got caught up, and then I forgot.

However, for those of you who are still reading, I am starting anew.

I plan on (hopefully) posting weekly this semester. My main accomplishment this winter break has been coming up with a series of schedules for myself, including weekly reminders that I have to email my physical trainers (knee injury), keep up with my mandarin vocabulary, and regularly update my blog. New Year; new routine.

SO, here I am again. Sitting at my desk at home, awaiting another early morning of travel and a brand new semester of fun. Last semester was incredible, but I'm planning on doing even more this semester. Along with many inter-Shanghai adventures, I plan on going to Harbin, Cambodia, India, Thailand, MAYBE Tibet and Nepal, and maybe a few in between. Last semester, I got oriented and comfortable. I enjoyed daily life, made a home, and settled in. Now, I'm ready to get out and see what all of Asia has to offer.

If I wern't about to fall asleep, I'd keep writing. For now though, I'll say goodnight, and welcome to part II :)

Hong Kong Macau, pt 2

Day 1: Victoria Peak and W Hotel night

After getting up relatively early on Saturday morning, the group headed over to Starbucks for a lite breakfast and some day planning. We came to the conclusion that we needed to head to Victoria Peak to see the famous view of the city, then if we had time we'd head over to Stanley Market. Being economically efficient students,we chose to take the subway. We figured out how many stops we needed to take and where to change lines to get close to the cable car
that heads to the peak. We ended up in the center of the city, looking up at all the famous buildings of Hong Kong from the ground level. We hiked up a few hills,eventually finding our way to the Victoria Peak visitor's center.
After a subway adventure, we got to the base of the peak and jumped on the cable car heading up.
Upon arrival, we headed straight for the top of the building. October weather in Hong Kong makes the humidity low and the sky clear, making it a perfect day for pictures and sightseeing. The day was clear, warm, and beautiful as we
overlooked the harbor. After MANY pictures, photoshoots, and entourage impressions, we headed down to the peak plaza for a light lunch of french baguette sandwiches and cold drinks. It was fantastic to be up there, especially on such a beautiful day.

After Victoria Peak ,we all headed down to the Ladies Market. Stanley Market turned out to be a very far drive, so we stayed local and bartered for some goods. I bought a brown, styled wig (not for any particular reason...mostly because I thought it was funny) and the boys bought some trinkets. We were all exhausted from traveling and roaming around Hong Kong, so we called it a night and headed back to the W for some swimming, showers, and to figure out the plans for the evening. Clay and I went up to the rooftop of the W to the outdoor hottub, which was fantastic after a long day of walking and sightseeing. The other group of Pepperdine students traveling in Hong Kong showed up at the W, and we decided we would all figure out something to do together that night. One thing and another, we ended up staying in, enjoying the luxuries of the W and just having a great time relaxing. The day was great, the evening was relaxing, and we all decided that Hong Kong is definitely fantastic (that's if you can afford it... but hey, we're living it up while we still can!)

Hong Kong-Macau, pt 1

Wow... it's been awhile since i've posted. These past few weeks have just flown by. I did do some blogging while on the move!

After a few weeks of good hard work, I'm off to Hong Kong. I'm traveling with Morgan, John, Patrick, Clay, and James. Wendy of the lost boys much (with, of course, the exception of Morgan :) ) ?? Because I had an afternoon class today, I left about five hours after everyone else... Alone. Clay did not inform me that he had changed his flight, so I realized this afternoon that I would be fending for myself. Ainsley luckily had a close flight to Beijing, so I had some company on the way to the airport. From there, I proceeded to negotiate, explain, and board my plain in mandarin. I've gotten used to people staring at me all the time, but now I love that I can semi understand when people make comments about me in line. My favorite of the evening: "what is she?" "English? Too skinny to be American."
I passed out for most of the flight. Chinese airlines, regardless of
the time of day, always serve food. The Stewardess brought me a half
decent fruit cup, and I enjoyed the roughly translated English announcements.So after a rather easy flight, I landed in Shenzen. The south china humidity smothered me upon exiting the aircraft into the open expanse of outdoors that is Shezen. Still alone, I found a 90 kuai bus to Hong Kong. Flying into Shenzen and taking a bus or train significantly saves money... All the more for shopping I guess. I navigated this bus, picked the correct stop, and then saw my shining beacon of hope: Starbucks. Being alone, tired, and looking at an hour on the bus, this was the best part of the evening :) the bus came about ten seconds after I picked up my latte, and now I'm on my way to the W. I'm keeping track of this on my iPod, to be published upon arrival. As for now, I'll sit back with my latte, read my new Dan Brown novel, and continue to call my useless friends who have not yet remembered to turn on their phones. Oh well.

Later...

Finally at the W. Turns out the bus was not as simple as first expected. After getting settled in, the bus stopped and I was told to get off. I had to first go through a set of customs, transferring from mainland China to Hong Kong. Then to another bus. Ten minutes later, I had to get off again to go through the health exam. One more bus, then head into the Prince Edward port somewhere in Kowloon. I get off the bus, find a taxi, and eventually make my way to the W. Though exhausted, I'm sitting here in the lobby with everyone, enjoying the white party and hopefully going out for some more fun in a little bit!

Yay for traveling alone. More on Hong Kong to come :)

For the first time of the semester, I worked late into last night. I was trying to understand and put together my presentation on Constructivism Theory in International Relations. Not only was I struggling with the subject matter (Constructivism is highly hypothetical and purely analytical) but also with the concept of once again putting together a full scale powerpoint presentation.
The nice thing about working in Shanghai is that unlike Malibu, things stay open. I can go get a Starbucks (or 24 hour 85 degrees) coffee at 11:00 pm and then head down the all-days convenience store at the end of our street at 1:00 to pick up a soyjoy bar and green tea. Malibu is pretty much shut down by 10:00pm, and the nearest open areas are usually a 20 minute drive through the canyon.

Even better are the mornings. I can wake up at 6:30, light already streaming through my window, and revise my presentation. Go for a run, pick up a coffee, enjoy a bowl of cereal, and keep on going. It's all pretty fluid and easy here... even more so than on the Malibu campus. The amount of work is still very real, but I don't mind it nearly as much here.

8 hour of class in one day... Tuesdays are rough.

October 3rd. Lunar Holiday.

So here I sit, house almost completely to myself. It's nice to have a night of just quiet... but I also miss having the group home. I was invited to go out tonight, but I figure, how many nights alone will I get for the rest of this term? So I sit with my take out curry, enjoying the full moon and catching up on my busywork.( despite the large availability of American/western food, I'm trying to see how long I can hold out before I go running for the pizza hut down the street :) )

My parents came to Shanghai for a few days this week. Unfortunately, the week's rain hadn't stopped by the time they arrived. We spent the first day cruising the Super Brand Mall on the Pudong side of the river. Ten full stories of commercial madness is, at times, overwhelming, but I think they liked it. It was mostly just interesting to see how modern Shanghai has embraced capitalism in it's purest form. After an afternoon nap at the Four Seasons, we headed out for a traditional Shanghainese dinner. We ended up in an old mansion in the French Concession where we were served iced chicken, Mao pork, smoked fish and fresh peas. The flavors and style were definitely not what we were used to, but it was fun to try something new.

Friday was a gorgeous day, so the three of us headed out to the Yu Gardens, the only slightly historical sight left in Shanghai. Because of the holiday week, the gardens were PACKED with people... almost all visiting Chinese with a few random westerners thrown in. Our morning was filled with bartering, shopping, and sampling the local fair. For lunch, we stopped by a crowded stand of street food where whole deep fried crabs on skewers were flying out of the stalls and devoured by local tourists. After an order of crabs, xiao long bao (little dragon buns, or steamed pork dumplings), and egg tarts (amazing!), we finally found the actual garden inside the large circling walls of the complex. The gardens themselves were lovely and tranquil, especially in the Shanghai midday heat. After a walk around, we headed back to the Four Seasons for massages :) and some down time before dinner.

On the way to dinner, we stopped by People's Square to admire the lights and holiday festivities. The whole country seems to have the holiday spirit, waving small China flags and supporting the national activities. We then headed over to New Heights, a trendy bar with an unbelievable view of the Bund. Below New Heights was our restaurant, the Wanpou club, where we had some of the best Chinese food I've ever had. Specialties of the area (xiao long bao) combined with fusion shrimp and sweet pistaccio beef made then dinner incredible. We enjoyed all of these local delicacies while looking out on the river skyline, perfectly clear in the cool autumn night.
Sadly, My parents left come Saturday morning to head back home. After some sad goodbyes, I took advantage of the Four Seasons health club and then headed on my way to explore Shanghai. The day was incredible: perfectly clear, not too hot, and full of Chinese tourists. I headed back down to People's Square to Shanghai's No. 1 department store, where at the request of my father, I bartered myself a working cell phone. I stopped for a Starbucks at the People's Square outdoor patio, where I opened up my Shanghai book and skimmed through the local attractions. Finally, I head back home, got myself some take out, and now sit here reflecting on the past week.

At night, the city is covered in lights and decorations for the holiday. Driving down Nanjing road is almost like going through some lit up Christmas neighborhood... only instead of holiday cheer, the energy is unmistakebly nationalistic. I have two more days of "vacation" until classes start up. I have laundry and homework looming, but hopefully some fun mixed in here and there.

It's amazing to me that after only a month, I really am starting to fall in love with this city. I can't wait to get out and do some traveling (I'm already reeling with stories from my groupmates and their assorted travels) but at least for this break, I'm glad I got to explore the city a little further. I have many more places to try, more things to see, and hopefully some more fun time to experience here. For now, I'll simply enjoy my East Indies shrimp curry and the beautiful full moon in the quiet of my beautiful Jia.

Quick note:

Went running this morning as usual. Walked into Starbucks (which opens at 7:00 AM, no lines EVER) and the nice barista girl asked me if i'd like my usual.

....

Apparently, I've become the store-opening regular. I love this city.

Classes

In Mandarin class this morning, I realized I'm finally starting to get this language.

I have struggled with languages from the time I was old enough to read. Because on my not-so-smart first grade teacher (who later became my third grade teacher...ugh) I didn't end up learning English grammar until about the fifth grade. After taking basic Spanish throughout most of my elementary education, I gave up and chose Latin upon my arrival at Castilleja. Big mistake. What is Latin? mostly grammar... hard grammar and vocabulary. Though kind of helpful in terms of SAT vocabulary, Latin pretty much kicked my ass till the day I completed my basic high school language requirement.
Luckily, Mandarin has been very different. Unlike most romance languages, Mandarin grammar is fluid and flexible. Mandarin is a conceptual language, based on primarily vocabulary and interpretive tones. As someone who is relatively musical, the tones come naturally and the language almost feels like music. In short: I like it. The hard part has been trying to listen. With the different accents and massive vocabulary, Mandarin initially sounded like gibberish. Now, after a summer and a few intensive weeks of exposure, I'm starting to understand daily conversation. Not every word, but I can listen and pick up phrases or common words. When putting a conversation in context, I can actually pick up on the general gist of the content. I realized this when sitting in class this morning. Instead of my normal struggle to interpret our laoshi's (teacher) daily lessons (which she tries to teach completely in Mandarin), I found myself actually understanding. Instead of forcing myself to do word-by-word translations of her instructions, I just listened and, with a few exceptions, understood what she was saying. It was fantastic.

My other classes are also good. I'm currently taking Asian art history, International Relations, and Statistics. None of these classes where what I was expecting, but I really like them all. Art History is more or less Chinese art appreciation. I am learning not only how to view Chinese art, but also how to recognize my own biases towards western art. International Relations is amazing. Our professor is one of the most intellectual, intelligent and down to earth people I've ever met. This man is a personal friend of Henry Kissinger... and he's teaching me?! I've only had one class thus far, but I can tell this is going to be an amazing semester. Statistics, with our visiting professor Khan Bui, is surprisingly comfortable. I haven't taken a math class since junior year high school... so I was naturally pretty nervous about starting a math course in China. To my relief, the class has been a combination of simple algebra and practical application. Thus far, I'm really enjoying classes here.

One more day of class and then we break for the Fall Holiday, or Golden Week. In China, this is the fall national holiday. I can't really tell what the Chinese do to celebrate, only that they don't work for a few days and eat a lot of food. Sounds good to me. Most of my classmates are traveling around China, but I'm hanging out in Shanghai because...... my mom and dad are coming!! Turns out my Dad had some business planned for earlier this week in China. My parents decided to extend the trip, stop by Hong Kong, and then come spend a few days in Shanghai with me. I'm excited that they'll get to see where I'll be living for the next year, as well as spend some time just exploring the city with me.

Hope everyone has a safe and fantastic Golden Week!

Tesco Nightmares

Once again, China blocked my access to facebook and this blog. After a few days of relentlessly hunting down proxy servers, I am once again online.

Yesterday I went over to my local Tesco to pick up some laundry detergent. Tesco is like a wall-mart style underground shopping mall that spans the entire double level basement of the large building in which it is located. As a westernized shopper, Tesco is both fascinating and frightening.

Upon walking into this emporium of madness, I am immediately overwhelmed by the number of people. These people have no organization, instead opting for snail-like browsing or aggressive pushing and shoving. While making my way over to the toiletries selection, I realize that despite having some western brands, nothing is in English. I hopelessly stare at the wall of herbal essence hair products, trying to remember which color shampoo I use, all the while being knocked around by various other shoppers. I then venture over to the aisle of washing detergent, walking past everything from small vespas to a large array or liquor. Again, no English. I scoff at the price, almost 75 RMB for a normal sized laundry detergent ( this is about 11 US dollars) but figure I can't decipher any of the cheaper alternatives and I don't want to end up with bleached out clothes.
Once I grab my essential items, I look around the sea of bodies for some sign of a check-out station. Nothing. I wander aimlessly around the bottom floor, looking for anything resembling a cashier. Finally, I see a moving ramp to the upper floor. Though not my first guess, I assumed the ramp would allow me to find some way of exiting the store.
I arrived on the upper floor to an even more massive crowd of people. Household products were replaced by food... so much food. Shelves and shelves of products that I couldn't recognize. I once again began my search for the checkout. I passed young women with microphones and adorable dress outfits, promoting the Chinese equivalent of Activia Yogurt. I passed through the fresh produce section, which considering how much local food I'm eating was a mistake. Not only were people handling the produce, but they were throwing it around and testing it. As I made to turn around, an small old woman literally sneezed in my face. Those who know me well know that I HATE sneezing, especially when not covered. This was in my face. To my horror, this is not uncommon in China. There were people simply coughing, sneezing, or hawking spit all over the place...in a supermarket. Worse was the meat counter. Apparently, in China, customers like to "feel" the meat before purchasing. Slabs of raw flesh lay out, amidst the crowds of people, being handled and prodded. I had to get out.
Ten minutes later, after stumbling through the frozen food section with my detergent and hair product, I finally found the checkout. Logically placed? No. I paid, bagged my items (you have to do that yourself here) and promptly went upstairs to the Starbucks to recover from my adventure. Shanghai has many a Starbucks, which is a definite plus for me. I haven't had American food for almost three weeks, but by God I won't give up my daily Latte. Whenever I get overwhelmed by the Chinese, the culture immersion, or just need a minute alone, I head to the beautiful shining beacons of either the local Starbucks or Coffee Bean (they are ALL over the city... lucky me.) I sit with my latte, recollect myself, and continue onward.

So I need to get used to the crazy shopping, but I guess that's culture immersion. I've gotten REALLY good at taking the subways ( it costs about 3 RMB per ride, or about 50 cents.) I take subways every day, by myself. I fight through the crowd and push my way in, just like everyone else in China. I can't get used to the public sneezing-coughing-hawking. I don't understand how that is culturally acceptable. Regardless, I just go with it. I take cabs when I have to, even though cabs here are also very cheap. No big surprise... I'm pretty independent.

More to come. Need to finish my IR reading first (yes, I am a student.)

Hangin with the Locals

Today, I finally went to get my health exam. A blood sample, xray, and ultrasound later (ha, please) I am finally on my way to becoming a semi-permanent resident of CHINA. I would like give a shout out to all those who believe bureaucracy or government run health care is "good": I waited 4 hours this morning outside a health clinic, only to be turned away because it was "lunch break time." I came back in the afternoon, waited another three hours, went through a series of checkpoints only to wait in ANOTHER line, allowing me to have about thirty seconds with an overworked doctor and then be unceremoniously shoved out of the way. We think America has crappy systems? Welcome to socialized medicine.

I've developed a sore throat and lethargic demeanor, much like everyone else in the program. Once I finally returned to the Jia, I napped and took a quiet afternoon of research and statistics. I keep reminding myself that I need to get more rest... mostly because i'm exerting energy i'm not even aware during these first weeks of immersion.

Tonight was an experience, to say the least. After crawling out of bed, I grabbed Carl and Saxon to help me find dinner down the street. We stopped in at a local dumpling restaurant i've eaten at before, only to find there was no room inside. The hostess gave skeptical glances to her fellow workers, then gestured to the back of the restaurant, pointing "upstairs." I didn't even realize there was an upstairs, but since we were hungry I followed the boys up the stairs. We arrived in a crowded room of local Chinese, all smoking and laughing over large, more expensive plates of food. The downstairs had resembled a storefront restaurant, but this room was slightly more upper class and much more local. We all sat down, ordered some drinks, and opened a menu of complete characters (not English pinyin, just characters.) After Carl (who speaks great Mandarin!) asked for an English menu, the waitress summoned the "person in charge" who we assumed owned the restaurant. After greeting us, he asked us (Keep in mind, there was NO ENGLISH spoken this entire meal) what we liked to eat. In a brave move, Carl asked the man to bring us what HE liked to eat.
We waited in eager anticipation of whatever was coming our way. First, a plate of pickled cabbage, which is typical of a Chinese starter. Then, a small bucket with tin foil appeared. Inside was some kind of tofu dish with an aromatic chicken broth sauce and chunks of what appeared to be clam. It wasn't like anything i've ever eaten, but very good all the same. Then out came something familiar: Jiao zi, or boiled soup style dumplings. Served like dim sum, these little pouches of heaven were incredible. Shanghai is famous for it's soup dumplings, and this dish certainly proved why. Hot but not scalding, savory yet light, and covered in delicate dumpling dough. ahhhhh.
Finally, we finished with a sizzling plate of beef in a sweet soy sauce. Incredibly tender beef paired with some egg fried rice... just wonderful. After some more conversation with the Manager man (we couldn't really pick up his name... his deep gruff voice slurred almost everything he said) we left, having paid 90 quai for the whole meal (for those at home counting, that's about 15 US dollars, apps 5 dollars a person.)

On the way back, Saxon and I stopped for iced green tea outside the 7/11 style convenience shop outside our gate. The street woman near where we were sitting had taken an old chair and was stripping it for wood. Saxon, who is both wonderful and a complete mystery to me, decided to help the woman. I sat and watched as this odd act of kindness turned into a fantastic scene. John and Patrick drove by the house, saw Saxon, and proceeded to help him in his act of public service. Locals started to appear, confused yet fascinated by the odd Americans helping the street woman. As we later learned, higher class local Chinese do not help the street people with their "work," so watching Saxon was very strange and borderline taboo. We explained to the onlookers that Americans pride themselves in being both friendly and helpful. The locals, to my surprise, were impressed by this and watched in interest and the boys continued to help the woman with her work.

After the wood-stripping had finished, one of the woman who I had been pathetically trying to communicate with decided to walk John and I back to our Jia, which was right down the lane. After walking and chatting, we discovered that she lived next to our Jia in a small apartment across the way. She asked if we both would come up and see her home. Though small, the apartment housed the woman, her husband, and her young daughter. After assessing the the situation was perfectly safe and these people were simply being very hospitable, John and I sat and talked with the girl (Joy) and her mother (Laura.) The immersion was intense, but Joy spoke some English and John helped with the Mandarin translation. Joy, who is twelve and very good in school, was eager to exchange emails to she can practice her English. Both Joy and Laura were polite, kind and very hospitable to John and myself. Though in a normal situation, being invited to a strangers house would have seemed both sketchy and dangerous, but here it is a cultural norm. The home is a source of pride for Laura and her family, and inviting us up to chat and meet her family was incredibly kind of her. After a long series of conversations, I finally got back to the Jia. After a very long day, I feel like I definitely am staring to embrace the cultural transition. I chose China as my study abroad because I felt the transition here would be most difficult, yet also the most rewarding. By making the effort to step out of my comfort zone, I feel I'm getting much more out of this experience than If I were simply staying with the group 24/7. I'm meeting people, eating with the locals, and trying to bridge the cultural gap. I'm (safely) taking the leap into China.
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